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Pandemic Iberia Review

Pandemic Iberia is a Pandemic game set in the Iberian Peninsula in 1848. This was an important year since it marked the construction of the first railroad in the region. During this time, however,  4 major diseases threatened to outbreak in the peninsula: typhus, cholera, malaria, and yellow fever. Players taking on roles such as the nurse, railwayman, rural doctor, and sailor to help construct the railroad and stop the spread of those diseases.

This game has many of the basic components that players have come to expect from Pandemic games: different colored cubes, player markers, and 2 decks of cards. There are also several tokens that make an appearance that Pandemic players won’t recognize, like the purification tokens and railway markers. 

What really makes Pandemic Iberia shine component-wise, however, is the art. The box insert, cards, and game board all have beautiful art on them! The quality of everything is also amazing though I will probably still sleeve the cards because accidents do happen during game nights! 

Game Mechanics
Many of the basic mechanics in Pandemic Iberia are the same as vanilla Pandemic. Your main goal is to “cure” the four diseases. In this game, however, you cannot cure them, only “research” them. You research a disease by collecting and discarding 5 cards of a particular color. After each turn, you draw 2 cards, and cards may be traded by using an action and being on the same space as another player. Once you successfully research all 4 diseases, the players win!

The main hiccup is the fact that the diseases are spreading rapidly while you are collecting your cards. When the game starts, 9 cities are infected with a mixture of the 4 diseases: 3 cities get 3 cubes, 3 cities get 2 cubes, and 3 cities start with 1 cube. After each turn, the players draw card from the infection deck and add cubes to the cities. If any city gets more than 3 cubes, there is an outbreak that can chain to other cities. Each outbreak moves the outbreak track. If you have 8 outbreaks in a game, players lose. This game also has epidemic cards. When this card is drawn, players must infect the bottom card of the infection deck with three cubes and reshuffle all of the infection cards from the discard pile back into the deck. Epidemics also up the rate of infection after a few from 2 cards to 3 cards.

There are a few things that make Pandemic Iberia more difficult than Pandemic. You cannot research a disease until you build a hospital of the same color. This essentially means that you need 6 cards to research or cure instead of 5. Another thing that adds to the challenge is that this version is missing some of the essential roles from regular Pandemic. 

The rural doctor is similar to the medic, but he can remove a cube from an adjacent space instead of removing all of the cubes. The nurse is similar to the quarantine specialist except that her quarantine marker must be placed on an adjacent area and does not protect all areas surrounding her. Missing from the bunch is the scientist, who can cure with one fewer card, and the dispatcher, who can aid in player movement. Having an extra card requirement and no scientist really does add to the challenge of the game.

Speaking of movement, this board is very spread out and this was before air travel. As such, players cannot discard cards to move freely around the board. Instead, they can use the new travel mechanics of the game. The most important travel change is the railroad. As players move about the map, they can lay railway tokens to connect areas. Doing this allows a player to move from one city to any other city connected by the railroad in 1 action. You can also travel by carriage or by sea from any port city to another port city if you discard a card matching the color of the destination city. 

The final new mechanic is the purify water action. At any time, a player may discard a card matching their region to place 2 purification tokens in an area. The way the may is divided, there are areas in between the lines on the map that form regions. If a purification token is in the center, no cubes need to be added to the cities in that region if it is drawn during the infect step. Instead, you just remove a purification token.

For some added difficulty,  there are also some added challenge modes, but I have not touched those yet so I cannot comment on them.

Final Thoughts

I really like this version of Pandemic! Having already played and loved Pandemic, Pandemic Legacy, and Pandemic Reign of Cthulhu, I kind of suspected I would. Pandemic Iberia is different enough from the other versions of Pandemic that I don’t feel like I am playing the exact same game. The railroad and purification tokens add extra strategy and planning ahead, and having to build hospitals in each region before you can research adds some real difficulty. I had to play 5 times before I finally won! This is exactly what I’ve come to expect and love about cooperative games: the challenge! I love the art and the history built into this game. The naming of the diseases make them blend in seamlessly with the theme whereas letting the players name the diseases detracts from it in some ways (depending on the chose names, I guess). If you think you might like this game, I would go buy it ASAP.  It is a limited edition game, meaning that when this printing is sold out, it will never be reprinted. I don’t think they have ever officially announced the number of games that were printed, but I still wouldn’t wait to buy it. It’s a great game that deserves to be in your collection, and it’s not going to be around forever!

Verdict: Highly recommended!

Five Tribes Strategy Guide

Five Tribes by Bruno Cathala and Day of Wonder

Overview: Five Tribes is a game set in the age of the 1001 Arabian Nights, designed by Bruno Cathala and published by Days of Wonder. Five Tribes features 90 wooden meeples, a gameboard made up of 30 unique tiles, a deck of resources, and a deck of powerful Djinns. There is also an interesting bid mechanic before each round in determining which players go first (high bidders) and which players go last (low bidders). In a unusual twist on the “worker placement” genre, the game begins with the meeples already in place. Players must pick up all meeples on a chosen tile, and then drop them one by one over the villages, markets, oases, and sacred places tiles that make up Naqala. This meeple movement is commonly referred to as “worker displacement.” How, when, and where you displace these Five Tribes of Assassins (red), Elders (white), Builders (blue), Merchants (green), and Viziers (yellow) determine your total points at the conclusion of a Five Tribes game, which happens when: 1.) one player has claimed all the tiles they can with their camels (aka “cameeples”) or 2.) there are no more legal meeple moves/displacements on the game board.

Five Tribes Meeples on Game Board

 Early Game Focus: As soon as the Five Tribes board tiles are laid out and the meeples are placed (and before bidding begins), take a moment to survey the map of available moves. Some obvious yet advantageous placements to look for:

Five Tribes Builder Meeples
3 builders on oasis tile

1) Tiles with 2 or even 3 of the same meeples ripe for the taking, especially elders (white), which most players will accumulate early regardless of their strategy

Five Tribes Elder Meeples
2 elders on sacred place tile

2) Elder (white) meeple(s) on a sacred place tile, which if used to end a displacement will allow you to summon an early Djinn by spending 2 elders (need to select a starting tile with at least 1 elder for this to work)

Five Tribes Merchant Meeples
2 merchants on large market tile

3) Merchant (green) meeple(s) on a market tile (preferably the 2/6 large market), which really jump starts the merchandise set collection if you end your displacement in this way. Depending on how the resource cards gets dealt, you could have 4 or 5 out of 9 of the merchandise set from this one move/displacement (2 or 3 from merchant meeples and 2 more from the large market after spending 6 gold).

One or more of these hypothetical moves/displacements is likely to be present on the Five Tribes game board right at set-up! But if someone bids more than you, and even worse, performs the same displacement you were planning as their move: don’t worry. In the early game, you’ve got options. Bidding more than 5 gold in the first few rounds is usually a total waste, and only takes away from your total score at the end of the game. Let your opponents throw away their gold in the first few rounds of play! You’ll still have bid money when you most need it in the final rounds, when you won’t have options.

Five Tribes Djinn Cards
Djinns: Ibus, Kandicha, Haurvatat, Enki, and Bouraq
Five Tribes Djinns
Djinns: Sibittis, Shamhat, Jafaar, Sloar, Echidna, and Al-amin

The Djinns of Naqala: Djinns provide powerful bonuses that can be utilized as soon as you summon them, and they also give you raw victory points (indicated in the upper right hand corner of the Djinn card). However, as the Djinn pool isn’t replenished until the “clean-up” of each game round, and only 3 are available for summoning each round, and you must finish a meeple move on a sacred place tile to summon an available Djinn…there will only be a handful of Djinns summoned by players in any Five Tribes game. So choose your Djinns early and wisely! There is a Djinn strategy worth mentioning though, and it involves the Djinn Sibittis, who allows you to scroll through the Djinn deck, choosing 1 of 3 and discarding the rest. The cost for this ability is 2 elders or 1 elder plus one fakir (resource card used to summon Djinns and add to multipliers; not part of the merchandise set collection), and the latter cost means you’ll need less elders to summon more Djinns. In this heavy Djinn strategy, you’ll still need lots of elders and lots of fakirs, but more importantly, Sibittis needs to be drawn, and you need to get him!

The Five Tribes of Naqala

The Five Tribes of Naqala: Are all Five Tribes meeples equal in victory point potential? The short answer is “no.” Without certain Djinn cards to amplify their point values, some meeples have lesser victory point potential than others.

Assassins (red) – are great for a land grab strategy, in which you use your assassins to kill the last meeple in a tile, clearing it and awarding you the ownership of the tile. This opportunity will usually present itself later in a game. You can even create the meeple placement necessary, by dropping meeples on empty, unclaimed tiles, then killing them with your assassins in the same move (can also discard fakirs to amplify the range of your kill). Some useful Djinns for this strategy are Kandicha (keep meeples that you kill or benefit from killing them) and Iblis (kill 2 meeples instead of 1). Assassin meeples can also be used to kill your opponents’ elders and viziers, but do this cautiously. In competitive games, revenge is contagious. Unless you’re in a race to gain the most viziers, killing opponents’ meeples just isn’t worth the backlash.

Builders (blue) – are decent for a side strategy, or for an irresistible move/displacement that can net you 15+ gold (Example: gaining 4 builders on a tile surrounded by 4 blue tiles = 16 gold). Remember that gold coins equal victory points, and having plentiful gold for the last 2 rounds means you can bid high and possibly go first in both rounds. Fakirs can also be discarded to add multipliers to the amount of gold you get when performing a builder displacement. The Djinn Echidna (doubles builder gold awarded, at the cost of 2 elders or a fakir plus an elder) can be used for a Midas heavy builder strategy, assuming she is available for summoning.

Elders (white) – As mentioned above, elders are a high-priority target for most players in the early game, so get them quickly, unless you are sure that you don’t want any of the available Djinns in the pool. They are worth 2 victory points each at the end of a Five Tribes game, and the Djinn Shamhat (elders are worth 4 victory points) can amplify your score if she’s available for summoning.

Five Tribes Merchandise
A merchandise 9 set – 60 points

Merchants (green) – provide players with extreme victory point potential, especially if only 1 or 2 players in a 3 or 4-man game are focused on merchant goods. A full set of 9 different merchandise nets you 60 points, and it doesn’t take much effort to build a healthy set. This merchandise strategy can be paired with other side strategies, as fakirs can also be purchased from the selection of resource cards. The Djinns Sloar (discard a fakir to take the top card of the resource deck) and Al-amin (two fakirs = a wild merchandise at game’s end) are extremely helpful in building merchandise sets. Note: Veteran players may try to block your acquisition of the 3 rare merchandise cards (ivory, jewels, & gold), even if they aren’t using the merchandise strategy, so grab these cards quickly when available!

Viziers (yellow) – are much more valuable in 3 and 4-man games, as the 10 victory point bonus for each opponent is more enticing in larger games (Example: 4-man game = 30 victory points if you have more viziers than everyone else). The Djinn Jafaar (viziers are worth 3 victory points each) makes the vizier army strategy more than just a side strategy, especially in larger games. If this is your plan, using assassins to kill others’ viziers may be necessary, but expect retribution!

Five Tribes Oasis Tiles with Palm Trees
Oasis tile with palm trees

Miscellaneous side strategies:  Other ways to amplify your score under your opponents’ noses is through the accumulation of palm trees (oasis tile) and/or palaces (village tiles). In the palm tree farmer strategy,  drop meeples on oasis tiles with your ownership cameeple for future displacements, then end subsequent moves on these oasis tiles, thus adding multiple palm trees to the tiles you own. The Djinns Enki (add a palm tree to the oasis tile of your choice; cost 1 elder or 1 fakir) and Haurvartat (palm trees are worth 5 victory points) are both very helpful to this strategy and each Djinn is worth an impressive 8 victory points themselves. The palace owner strategy involves similar placement of meeples on the village tiles you own, for use in later moves to multiply your palaces. The Djinn Bouraq (add a palace to the village of your choice; cost 1 elder or 1 fakir) is important to this side strategy: Note: There is a limited number of both palm trees and palaces, and once the supply runs out, you can’t place any more.

Five Tribes Turn Order and Bidding Track

Late Game Focus: When it appears the game is winding down (few visible meeple moves or you or an opponent has claimed nearly all of their tiles via cameeples), you should consider bidding more gold in each round, since in the final rounds the person who bids the least gold may not even get a movement turn. Therefore, the high bidders in the last 2 rounds have a distinct advantage over the low bidders. At this late stage in a Five Tribes game there are very few, if any, elders left to acquire for the summoning of Djinns. There are also less available meeple moves in general, so beggars can’t be choosers! Find the best move you can make and possibly multiply a builder or assassin movement with any fakirs you have, as they are usually worthless in terms of victory points at game’s end. Note: Try to avoid dropping meeples in empty, unclaimed tiles. This novice mistake often shortens the game artificially, as it sets up easy tile grabs, which are especially enticing to opponents who have already claimed nearly their maximum number of tiles. If such an opponent drops their very last cameeple and claims a high victory point tile as a result of your previous meeple displacement, the game is over on their terms, and you’ve given them easy victory points!

7 Wonders Strategy 101: A guide for novices and intermediates

Overview: 7 Wonders is a card-drafting/card development game developed by Antoine Bauza. The game spans three ages/rounds (Ages I, II, & III). In each age, players receive seven cards from the Age deck, choose one of those cards, and pass the remainder to an adjacent player. Each player then chooses another card from the deck they were passed, and the process repeats until players have six cards in play from that Age, discarding the final unused card when their 6th selection has been played. Players reveal and play their drafted cards simultaneously. Some cards have immediate effects, while others award bonuses later in the game. Other cards provide discounts on future purchases, or once played allow for the free construction of later Age “chained” structures. Some cards provide military strength to overpower adjacent players during the military stage at the end of each Age, and other cards simply give victory points. Cards are passed left-right-left over the three Ages, so you need to keep an eye on your closest neighbors in both directions. After three Ages, the game ends and the victory points are calculated. In 7 Wondersthe player with the most victory points wins!

Your Wonder board dictates your very first strategy decisions in any 7 Wonders game. In the 7 Wonders base game, there are 7 possible wonders that are randomly assigned to each player.  In many ways, your Wonder will set the stage for your game.  What resource does your city produce initially, and what are the perks awarded to you as you build each stage of your Wonder? Should you play the safer “A” side of your Wonder or the sometimes more rewarding “B” side? Also, what are your adjacent neighbors’ Wonder boards, and can their starting resources assist you in eventually building your Wonder stages? Any Wonder board can be used to achieve victory, but there are definitely some stronger perks on certain city’s Wonder stages. There isn’t a horrible imbalance in the Wonder design, but it’s clear to see that some cities have an easier path to particular victory points than others. In the 7 Wonders base game, my personal favorite city is Olympia (“A” side). The Statue of Zeus’ second stage Wonder ability to build any card for free once per Age provides an incredible advantage, especially if you’re lucky enough to get something ordinarily difficult to build like the Palace in Age III.

City: Olympia with Wonder: Statue of Zeus

Plan A: After determining the strengths and weaknesses of your Wonder board, and the same for the players to your immediate left and right, choose a more likely path to victory as your “Plan A” during the start of Age I. This initial plan can involve a number of building focus combinations (Ex. military structures/red plus science buildings/green), or heavy production on mono-focused building with “chains” of free construction (commonly civilian buildings/blue). Another possible “Plan A” involves a well-rounded construction approach for Age I, so that your eggs aren’t all in one basket, and you are less a visible target to opponents. Of course, in Age II, it would be best to choose a construction focus as soon the opportunity presents itself.

Age I & Age II resources

Resource Management: In both Ages I & II, the card-drafting selection will include a high volume of resources, but Age III is devoid of them. So by that point in the game, unless one of your Wonder stages provides resources upon construction, you won’t be able to acquire any last minute resources. Thus if you have selected very few resources throughout the first two Ages, you’ll have to rely on the brown and gray resources of your neighbors (and your supply of available gold to purchase them!). Therefore having a balanced resource stack, both for your Wonder stages and whatever structures you intend to build on your path to victory is a sound strategy. This will also likely mean a steady flow of gold from your neighboring opponents, especially if one or both have neglected their resource accumulation. One common resource strategy among veteran players is to build the Glassworks (manufactured good/gray) ASAP, especially if you intend to build up any science structures (green), expensive late game civilian structures (blue), or the Age III guild structures (purple), as many of these require the glass resource. If you have somehow acquired 3 of one resource, you’re going to benefit much more from having 3 stone or clay than from having 3 wood or ore, since stone and clay building costs are typically higher than wood and ore building costs in the later Ages. Of course, the necessity of having 3 of any one resource is usually due to the last stage Wonder costs (sometimes as high as 4 of a single resource) on your Wonder board.

Plan B: Hopefully by the middle of Age II your initial “Plan A” is a success, and you’ve got a strong spread of your desired buildings. But if things aren’t going well by this point in the game, due to an opponent having a similar strategy or a less-than-ideal card-drafting situation, then it’s time for “Plan B!” Part of the beauty of 7 Wonders involves the ability to redirect strategy, or change construction focus, and still have a fighting chance of winning the game. Your “Plan B” should adjust your path to victory with a different building focus, while still using your Wonder’s perks to their fullest. Of course, a successful switch to “Plan B” will rely heavily on your available resources, good timing, and a little luck in the card-drafting selection after you change strategic course.

Altar/Temple/Pantheon Civilian Structure Chain

X number of players: Strategy often depends on the number of players, due to the different distribution of cards. While the main focus remains on your city and those of the players to your right and left, you simply can’t ignore non-neighboring players in larger games of 4-7 players. If a non-neighboring player shares a similar building strategy, you may find yourself with weak selections being passed your way in card drafting. Catching this problem early may help you in a well-timed decision to switch from your “Plan A” to your “Plan B,” rather than competing with a non-neighbor for structures and resources. Militarily, in 6 or 7 player games, attempts to build up a powerful military presence are only going to take points away from a portion of the other players. But in a 3-player game, the military wins and losses of every age affect everybody, and it’s often unwise to ignore your military structures. A 3-player game is also notoriously short on brown resources, so play the ones you need when they are passed to you. In both 3 and 7-player games, it’s wise to get the resources you need for your Wonder as soon as possible, or risk not getting the latter stages built at all. While a 4-player game may be somewhat lacking in gray resources, there are so many added brown resources that Wonder stage building is hardly a concern. Especially in Age II, you get this huge influx of brown resources in the 4-player game. Conversely, only a single Caravansery (commercial resource structure/yellow) is added in each of the 5 and 6-player games, and no additional resources are added for 7-player games.

Workshop Science Structure & Military Structure Chain

Burying cards under wonders & blocking other players: There are more advanced strategies that involve getting certain resources early in Age I, then “burying” those same resources under the next stage of your wonder as they are passed back to you later in the round or in Age II, thus creating a resource monopoly. This almost always nets you more gold from adjacent players in need of that resource, and in some cases can shut an opponent down from building the resource-heavy final stage of their wonder. Another more in-depth strategy involves blocking other players from building highly desirable structures by similarly “burying” these cards under your Wonder stages, or even by discarding these cards for 3 gold, though the latter action should be only used as a last resort, possibly when your Wonder is already fully constructed. Blocking opponents isn’t necessary to achieve victory. But strategically speaking, if you’re going to “bury” 3 or 4 useless cards under the stages of your Wonder anyway, those cards might as well also be the structures your opponents’ most need for their victory!

Dominion Storage: Base Game, Prosperity, and Seaside

I really like Dominion. I like it enough that I have a few of the expansions. I do not have all the expansions yet, but I still found myself having problems storing my cards. The main issue I have is that I really dislike having multiple boxes for a single game. I always prefer to house expansions for my games inside the main game box. In many cases, this is complicated by either the sheer volume of expansions or the limitations of the insert.

The box for Dominion is adequately sized to hold a lot of cards. The artwork is pretty cool, and it fits perfectly on my shelves.

The main problem I have is with the insert. It is a pretty good insert if you only want to stick with the base game, but most people who play and like Dominion understand that the base game isn’t enough. The problem begins when you start adding expansions.

I have expanded my overall game collection by a lot over the last few months. For now, I am okay with just having Dominion, Prosperity, and Seaside. I do recognize that I may someday want to expand the collection further so I did build some room into my storage solution.

With this storage solution, I removed the insert and divided the box into 3 rows. For now, one row houses the treasure and victory point cards while the other row holds all the rest of the cards. The middle section has the game tiles and game pieces.  I did make the center section large enough to fit cards if I ever need it to. For the dividers, I printed out a bunch from Sumpfork’s Dominion Tabbed Divider Generator.  I have been too busy (and lazy) to actually cut out the tabs, but I may do that at some point. I am able to fit in all the cards, tiles, and pieces for Dominion, Seaside, and Prosperity. I could fit some more expansions as well by removing the foam stoppers or merging the tiles and game pieces in one section so that the other section can house more cards.

The main way I did this was to build a center section out of foam core to separate the three rows. I normally build a whole foam core insert that spans the whole box, but I didn’t want to go through the trouble and risk crowding out the dividers. A simple center box seems to work well to keep the rows separate and divided properly. I still have to print a few more dividers, but I am happy to say that all of my expansions currently fit in one box! This will allow my limited shelf space to hold more games.  I can’t even imagine what storage must be like for those Dominion fans that have all the expansions!

Pandemic: Reign of Cthulhu Unboxing

Earlier this year, game designers Chuck D. Yeager, Matt Leacock, and Z-Man Games released a new version of the beloved game Pandemic set in the Cthulhu Mythos of H.P. Lovecraft. Having played and loved both Pandemic and Pandemic Legacy, I was really excited to play this game! I also grew up as a huge fan of H.P. Lovecraft’s work (issues aside) so unlike many people, I am not sick of the Cthulhu theme yet. While I will do a full review of the game and the gameplay at  a later time, I thought I would do an “unboxing” and show you all of the components that come in the box.

First of all, I really like the artwork of the game. The artists Chris Quilliams, Atha Kanaani, and Philippe Guérin did an great job capturing the powerful, foreboding Old Ones.

While I haven’t posted any evidence of it yet on my blog, I really enjoy building foam core inserts for my board games. As such, I always eye the inserts that come with the games with increased scrutiny. The original Pandemic insert was one of my favorites, and I only had to modify it slightly to fit all of the expansions. This one just seems like a lot of wasted space! I think they want you to put the investigator and Shoggoth figures individually into the cubbies, but I don’t think I can bring myself to do that! I do hope they release expansions for this game eventually, but I will probably build a simple custom insert for this game in the mean time.

While I don’t want to get too much into the difference between Pandemic and Pandemic: Reign of Cthulhu in this post, one of the big difference is illustrated in the above game pieces. The tokens on the left are sanity tokens. If you play a lot of games set in the Cthulhu Mythos like I do (Eldritch Horror, Elder Sign, Arkham Horror, Mansions of Madness etc.), you will be familiar with sanity tokens and sanity loss mechanisms. Characters in H.P. Lovecraft’s stories are also in danger from losing their sanity from the extraordinary and incomprehensible truths they witness or read. This is an interesting addition to Pandemic: Reign of Cthulhu.

This game also comes with miniatures for the investigators instead of the standard pegs or meeple. Seeing as I generally hate meeple, I appreciate that the designers were able to include  miniatures at this price point. Compared to the miniatures in Mansions of Madness, these ones aren’t half bad! In addition to making foam core inserts, I also enjoy painting miniatures so maybe I’ll try to paint these at some point.

There are also miniatures for the cultists and the Shoggoths! The cultists are essentially the disease cubes from Pandemic in miniature form! The Shoggoths represent a new mechanic specific to Pandemic: Reign of Cthulhu.

The stars of this game are the Old Ones. Each one does something terrible to the investigators and usually modifies the game rules. These cards are revealed during the awakening, which is similar to an outbreak in Pandemic. I definitely see some familiar faces here!

These cards detail the actions available to the investigators as well as explaining the sanity mechanism.

The investigators in this game all have a specific role and special ability. Many of the roles have counterparts in vanilla Pandemic. The Detective, for example, can seal a gate using 4 cards instead of 5 (Scientist). The Hunter may remove all cultists when performing the defeat a cultist action (Medic). There are also several roles that are new and specific to Pandemic; Reign of Cthulhu. Again, I think the art in this game is really great!

The top picture shows the relic cards. While these cards are similar to the event cards in Pandemic, you can get them through ways other than drawing them from the player deck. The only catch with most of them, however, is that you have to roll the sanity dice when you use them. This means that using a lot of relics increases the risk you will go insane. The second picture is of the cards in the player deck. Rather than each individual location having it’s own card, the cards are simply divided into the four towns: Arkham, Innsmouth, Dunwich, and Kingsport. The third picture includes the cards in the summoning deck. This deck is similar to the infection deck in Pandemic.

Finally, here is the Pandemic: Reign of Cthulhu game board. The board is divided into four connecting towns and is not as spread out as the cities on the Pandemic game board. This game also introduces some interesting travel mechanisms that aren’t in the original (like travelling through gates or by bus). The board has a dark feel to it that fits in perfectly with the theme of the game. I will talk more about the gameplay in another post, but overall, the components of this game are amazing and well-designed.